Salvation in god’s city, one spoon at a time

Salvation in god’s city, one spoon at a time

Food, like faith, is a saviour in Benaras. It is the third time in less than three days that we have alighted at Girja Ghar Chowk, opposite to St. Thomas Church. The city’s Catholic centerpiece is the colour of a pale mango, with white stripes …

Ashes to ashes, dust to dust

Ashes to ashes, dust to dust

The venerable Kashi, on the bank of the Ganges, is where I thought I would find salvation. Or so, I hoped. The boat is red. Dusty, brick red, with paint peeling off in little flecks into the muddy water. The once shiny coat has withered …

The only map you need if you’re visiting the Kochi-Muziris Biennale

The only map you need if you’re visiting the Kochi-Muziris Biennale

You’re going to the Biennale. Breathe.   You need to discover it, not catalogue it. It’s easy to run around like a headless chicken, instagramming and hashtagging, because, FOMO. But let me sum up the harsh reality—seeing everything is impossible. Some halls you might just …

Dispatch from Kochi

Dispatch from Kochi

There are no doors. Or, none that are closed. It is evening when we make our way to Fort Kochi, the oldest European settlement in India, as the guidebooks say. Our hotel, just at the curve of Napier Road, is a stately colonial building that’s …

Postcard from Kochi

Postcard from Kochi

I have spent three days wandering through the broad tree-lined roads of Fort Kochi, full of store fronts and home stays and boutique hotels that seem plucked out of a Colonial fairytale. We walk for most, and then halt more than that, entering doorways more …